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JRink
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:42 am |
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2003 12:00 pm Posts: 871 Location: Eagle, WI
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W3SI Special Used. 2,500 miles on them. Great condition. No shaft play, no problems.
$1,200 FIRM ($50 cheaper than the 3SI price I'm selling at)-- you keep your 9b cores (sell them for $300 and wind up with DR500s for $900). Selling because I'm upgrading to DR650s.
Shipping extra (cost dependent on your zip code). NO DIBS. First come, first serve. Check, money order, cash, or paypal (buyer pays paypal fees).
_________________  Best in Show - NG07 2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth) 2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth) 2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)
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Moogly4321
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Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:16 am |
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2003 1:04 pm Posts: 187 Location: Brookfield
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what would be the supporting mods i would need to run these turbos
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G-ELL
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Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 11:35 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Guys have put them on completely stock cars but stay at stock boost levels.
To completely maximize the dr500's, you'd need more feul along with a boost & feul controler.
_________________ 06 Blue EVO 9

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joe r
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Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 3:00 pm |
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 6:01 pm Posts: 55 Location: Rhinelander
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I have Dr 500's on my 91 RT TT and I run 12 pounds with the stock fuel system.They seem to pull as hard as the stockers did set at 14+. They really work good above 5000 rpm. 91 RT TT Down pipe no cats EGR block offs RPS 6 Puck with RPS flywheel Boost control Saving for the injectors ,pump,etc  MERRY CHRISTMAS Joe
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G-ELL
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Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 3:28 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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joe r wrote: I have Dr 500's on my 91 RT TT and I run 12 pounds with the stock fuel system.They seem to pull as hard as the stockers did set at 14+. Have you datalogged your car at those boost levels? What numbers are you seeing for injector duty cycles?
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joe r
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:17 am |
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 6:01 pm Posts: 55 Location: Rhinelander
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I never logged it.I installed them in october and started to turn the boost up when I hit a deer with it. So it sat for about a month while they put a new fender and related parts on it.I got it back just before it snowed up here. I did run it till the fuel shut off at 7300 more than once(at 12#) and she didn't blow.I have 122k on it.I did put a new oil pump in it and had the bearing check.
joe
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ttangel
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:42 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Jesse,
I'm fairly intrested in these turbos. How much of a pain in the arse is it to swap the stockers out for these?
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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G-ELL
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 10:00 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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It takes a good amount of patence, but it can be done in a day. I've found ratcheting wrenches really help make the job go smoother.
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JRink
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 11:43 am |
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2003 12:00 pm Posts: 871 Location: Eagle, WI
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Adam, I've never swapped turbos with the engine in, but my hunch tells me if it's your first time doing it, expect at least 8-12 hours, more if you don't have access to air tools. Having the proper tools is going to be the biggest headache. If you don't have an acetalyne torch, expect broken bolts and other problems - it happens. Add more time if you're replacing the front oil feed line or doing other assorted maintenance/upgrades (feed/return oil/coolant lines) at the same time.
I can tell you this, I've removed turbos from (2) 3/S engines while out of the car, and even that wasn't fun. As stuff gets old, it's harder to remove - and I have a ton of tools at my disposal compared to most people. However, with enough practice, you can whip out turbo swaps in 4-6 hours by yourself - just ask 440 4x4. If you want it done hassle free, I'd strongly suggest having him do it. He can bang them out for you faster than anyone around and his rates are more than reasonable - plus you get the assurance it's done correctly.
Jesse
_________________  Best in Show - NG07 2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth) 2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth) 2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)
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ttangel
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 12:59 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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KK,
Do you need the money now or can it wait until after the holiday season?
Or maybe a down payment until the holiday season is over?
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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JRink
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:46 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2003 12:00 pm Posts: 871 Location: Eagle, WI
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PM Sent.
_________________  Best in Show - NG07 2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth) 2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth) 2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)
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G-ELL
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:42 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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There's a trick to getting out siezed exhaust bolts/studs. Spray everything down with some kind of penatrating oil before hand. Start the the motor and let it come to operating temperature. Let the oil burn off (it'll smoke like h311). Then let the motor cool. Do that a couple times and everything usually comes apart fairly smoothly.
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JRink
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Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 4:18 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2003 12:00 pm Posts: 871 Location: Eagle, WI
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Turbos are sold.
_________________  Best in Show - NG07 2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth) 2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth) 2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)
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