Well after having it down for a week i worked on it for 12 hours and got the tranny put back in. Then I drove it around All day monday and tuesday afternoon. After work tuesday I got in and turned the key, it started for a second then died.

The car cranks totally fine but just doesn't start. I can hear the fuel pump running, I don't smell gas in on the plugs, and theyre totally dry if i pull them. I'm not getting spark either.

I've pulled out the ECU and that 'looks' fine. I"ve also tested voltages at the ECU for the MFI Relay, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft Position sensor, and those look ok when cranking.

A week ago I relocated my battery to the trunk, On My positive wire I had a very large fuse which I was meaning to remove, but never got around to it. Last night when I went to start the car this fuse blew, i replaced it with another one and it blew immediately after trying to start the car.

Could there possibly be some kind of short somewhere? The fuses in the engine bay look fine, as well as the ones inside the car. What else could possibly be blown to cause me to not get fuel or spark?

If anyone has any ideas let me know. I don't know what else to do from here, im starting to hate cars.


Thanks
Roy


EDIT: Heres the latest info

I'm getting a little bit of spark on 4 of the 6 cylinders.
While cranking I get ~6 - 7 volts to the fuel pump, no fuel comes out of the return line.
If I hotwire the fuel pump (12v) fuel does come out of the return line
The Injectors are NOT opening no matter what.

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http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

Well the fuel could be the injectors not opening. Could be a blown fuse or fried injector relay. Also, isnt there a fuel pressure regulator on the TT models. If so, sometihng could be wrong with that.

As far as the fuel blowning near the batt. Thats def either a short in that cable somewhere or possibly the fuse isnt high enough amps to handle the draw of the starter and other systems at start-up.

Make sure you are atleast running 4ga wire when relocating like that. The cables get longer and require a larger wire than stock to allow enough current flow.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

What size fuse and wire are you using. No spark could be coil packs or the power transistors.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

One quick way to check to see if you're getting any fuel is to remove the fuel return line off the fuel pressure regulator and connect another hose to it leading to an empty gallon of milk. When you crank the car, you'd better be getting plenty of fuel filling up the jug, or you have fuel issues. If it's not fuel, you should check spark. If you don't have spark on *any* cylinder its possible your power transistor unit is bad.

JR

Thanks, ill try that for the fuel. I hear the pump running while the engine is cranking, but we'll see if anything comes out. Id be happy if it was a fuel problem, electrical problems are really annoying.

I put the battery back in the engine bay the way it was, incase that was the problem. But it didn't help.

_________________
http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

Updated:

Well now that its dark out I figured id check for spark again, since I couldnt see any at all in the light.

I see a little spark on 4 of the 6 wires. How powerful should this spark be? it really seems weak to me, but i dont know.

Also, IF i was getting fuel in the cylinders how noticable would it be? The plugs come out completely dry, and do not smell like gas at all. On my other car I could clearly smell/see the gas on the plugs when I had an ignition problem.

_________________
http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

I've cranked mine with the coils disconnected and I could smell the gas as well as see it on the plug. Seems to me like its a def fuel problem. Although you should have spark on all 6 cyl.

_________________
~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Check to see if you have power to the black and white wire that runs into the MFI relay. The MFI relay is located behind the pass. left foot carpeted trim panel. You should have power running through there when you are cranking the engine.

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I have to agree on fuel. If it is not starting and the plugs are dry then is no fuel going in or there would be unburned fuel in the cylinder. I don't think it would be the MFI relay if the pump is working would it or does the control the injector and not the pump. I'll have to check the schematics when i get home.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

I believe that the Fuel pump and MPI system run on seperate relay circuits. So one could work without the other.

_________________
~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

We're getting closer. Thanks for all the help so far.

I am getting NO fuel from the Return line of the FPR while cranking. (and there is about 1/4 tank of gas in the car)

I get 11.8 volts at the MFI relay with ignition ON, 6.8v while cranking.

I get about 6.8v @ the fuel pump while cranking, I also gave the fuel pump a full 12v and tried cranking, still no start.

_________________
http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

Supplying 12v to the pump should spew gas out of the fpr line regardless if your car is cranking or not. Power that pump under any circumstance, gas should flow. If it's not doing that, your pump is shot, or you have a severe clog between your pump and fpr return line.

The last thing to check, if you'd rather not tear out the pump first, is disconnect the fuel pump hardline either from within the trunk, or a foot down the line (undernneath the car) and power 12v to the pump again. See if it shoots fuel. If it doesnt, pump defintiely bad. If you do get fuel, you have a major clog between the pump and the fpr return line (such as a fucked filter).

Jesse

That's what I was thinking next. If the fuel filter is that bad you should have notice something sooner like losing power at high RPMs. Unless you just sucked up something big last time you drove it.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

I just tried something else,

I wired the pump directly to the battery with the return line off, I did get fuel out of the return line then.

I put the return line back on, wired the pump to the battery again, and tried starting the car, but I still got no fuel in the cylinders.

Now im confused. The pump gets 'some' voltage when trying to start, but I got no fuel from the reutrn line until I gave it a full 12v. And the injectors still arent opening....

_________________
http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

When you crank the car, you SHOULD get about 12v at the pump. If you don't you have a problem in the circuit. You should stay at 12v at the pump while cranking and for the first (roughly) 5 seconds the car is running, then a relay kicks in which lowers pump voltage down to 7 or 8v at idle/low load.

I would suggest you need to diagnose why you are not getting 12v at the pump while cranking.

JR