everyone is getting ahead of themselves.

an internal combustion engine needs three things to run.

spark compression fuel.

I'm going to assume the engine is turning over. I'm also going to assume you didn't frag every cylinder in your engine, mainly because you said it's your DD and it ran a short time ago.

that leaves fuel and spark.

Did you test your spark by doing what greg said? Pull a plug, hold it to the block and have someone turn it over while you check for spark.

After that check and see if the spark plugs are wet with fuel.

Once you have those bases covered you can go back to blaming computers and fuel filters and fuse holders.

Also, a bad battery can start the car, but run out of charge quickly if it has weak cells. This will be especially prevalent if your altenator died at the same time.

What is the voltage of the battery, and what is the voltage of the system while the car is running?

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

the problem with checking the spark and fuel is that the car starts now. I let it sit in worm place for the day and it started after about 5 cranks. this morning it starts like there was never a problem. some how I need to fix the "dieing on the road" issue. or idling and then dieing in a couple minutes.

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

it was idling in the garage for about 5 mins, as soon as I pulled out it died 10 sec later. I tried starting fluid again, it wanted to start but never did. so I'm assuming the spark is there, I pulled the plug out and it looked dry to me. the only conclusion I can make is that I have moisture in the fuel lines and it freezes.

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

www.avproecm.com

You never answered my questions either.

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06 Blue EVO 9

the "mods" are pretty much SAFC with 560cc to use e85. that is it (that matters).

so my ecu is bad? looks good to me.

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

I’m not expert, but it looks like something is leaking – C35 TR6C36 D2 R39 R40 across to E

Same R114 above

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Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

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Capacitors can leak from the top, bottom, or sides.

The caps look like the original low quality Rubycon ones, which are known to fail prematurely. It's a good idea to swap them out anyways.

Does your ECU throw any codes when it stalls?

Might be worth a shot at removing the SAFC to eliminate that as a cause. Did you adjust your fuel trims with the colder weather?

I will swap caps sooner or later. I will do that if nothing else helps to fix this. Unless I'm blind or don't know how it suppose to look like its leaking.

I'm logging with mmc and don't see any codes. or I should get better logging software. O2s showing just like they were before, no change there. but I think its time to change them or get rid of them at all.

edit: what about this?
http://www.alldata.com/service_provider ... 1212a.html

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

I think your issue is the car needs a retune as you're running too rich and fouling the plugs. If you 0ed out the safc and put the stock injectors back in and filled up with 93 oct the would run fine.

Can't say for sure as you haven't told me what your o2s are doing while the car is running.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Yeah, I thought about that too, but if he's not getting fuel so there's no chance of fouling them out. Signs of heavy carbon build up or wet plugs would be obvious signs and he already mentioned they were "dry".

Check your fuel pump relay while you're down in that area. There's a "resistor bypass mod" on Stealth316.com. It's suppose to help with improving voltage to the fuel pump at idle.

Also, what does it show for coolant temp?

O2s show the same at any other time I was looking at them. there is no change. My fuel pump is hot wired and its working (I can hear it, its loud). Coolant temps are normal. and don't have stock injectors to try. so I'll see what I can do yet.

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

Your ECU looks nasty.

Cum stains are not normal. I see a few. It does not look like a simple cap replace will solve this.

starting fluid don's work anymore. I tried to check for spark (no that easy with msd wires) - no luck. how do I know for sure that I don't have spark?

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From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan

I've done this on a few cars with distributors. I'm sure this will work the same with the 1G CAS.

If you've only got two monkey arms then do this:

-pull the cam sensor out
-remove a plug wire and spark plug
-disconnect fuel pump relay
-Turn the ignition key to "On".
-hold/secure the wire/spark plug near a good ground (ie. strut mounting bolts)
-spin the shaft on the CAS by hand counter-clockwise (?)

It's late, and I can't think that well. You want to spin it the opposite direction of the crank.

EDIT:

Make sure you don't install the CAS backwards.