I spent most of the weekend working on Tom's car again.

The good news is we pretty much finished it up, and he drove it home.

He's got his very own spearco intercooler now, which is a big upgrade from nothing, and he has my old Greddy BOV. (which Ver Fer had for a while, so it's seen three cars in it's life. I think that's kinda cool.)

We also installed my old Geddy Profec B boost controller, and now he's running about 12.4 to 12.5 ish psi.

He was pretty excited. When I first went for a ride in it, I didn't think it was especially quick, but now it definitely sets you back in your seat. It's amazing how much difference a few pounds of boost make.

He claimed that they only have something like 260cc injectors in those cars. Can that be right? I wouldn't think that would be enough fuel for a three liter running 12 pounds unless the fuel pressure on those cars is stupidly high.

Also, I found out that the Z guys tune for knock by "listening for it." That gave me a pretty big giggle.

The Greddy was on my car when I sent it out to MN and LSE performance. They told me the soleniod was bad on it. Seeing as we tested the soleniod on a work bench at tom's place of employment, and also due to the fact that it holds a pretty rock steady twelve and a half pounds of boost, I'd say that anyone who is still around from that place needs to rethink how they check soleniods, as mine was fine.

Not that I regret getting the AEM soleniod. I don't particularly care one way or the other.

OH! Also.

I'm looking for coils and wiring harness from a 2002 or later chevy truck with an LS2 in it. If anyone knows where I can get that, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

_________________
Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

I did a little searching and it seems that 260 cc is the correct injector size, and they max out at around 12.5 psi. That's right where your friend is at.

"Listening for knock!" I'd giggle too.

Also, isn't 12 psi of boost kind of a low pressure to be testing a boost solenoid at? I don't have experience testing solenoids, so I'm curious how that works. I'd want it to hold 3-4 times that.

To test a solenoid you just put a current through it and see if it moves or not. The amount of boost is just controled by the controler opening and closing the solenoid.

How was it working on the car? I've heard they're more of a PITA to work on than 3/S' are.

This man is correct. We hooked up the wires, and made certain the soleniod moved back and forth. The soleniod does hold back the pressure, I guess, but it doesn't hold it back in a situation where a failure would mean the pressure would force it open... It's difficult to explain, but it's more like a rod moving up and down, with openings in it. In one position it lets the air through to the wastegate. In the other position it holds the air in the manifold, and allows air built up in the wastegate line to escape. Similar to say, a valve in a trumpet or a coronet, if that makes any sense.


Working on the car sucked huge flacid donkey cock. There are far to many vacuum lines that you cannot get rid of. It just ends up being alot of crap in the way. The turbo is in a poor position, but I guess it's simliar to our "rear" turbos.

They have a far easier timing belt change then we do, though.

I actually have a wall in my garage dedicated to parts that are "Harder then they should have been."

I have a timing belt tensioner that failed from my car on the wall. I have the fuel pressure regulator off from a 300zx on that wall, and I also have the rear shock absorber from a 300zx on that wall.

I would have hung the DNP precat eliminators on that wall, but I sold them to Eric, and he in turn said the precats weren't that bad, it was the downpipe being three inches to short was the problem... But we all know that he doesn't actually work on cars, so his opinion is voided.

_________________
Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!