So before I put my car in storage last year I was just starting to get the low oil-pressure light. Now I'm ready to start diagnosing that. So with a little help from Matt hopefully I'll be pulling the oil pan, replacing the oil pump and inspecting the lower part of the engine for any extended damage.

Is there anything else anyone can think of I need to do with this? Can someone give me a list of parts I need to purchase in that area since I'm going to have it all ripped apart?

Also G-ELL, last year when I put the car in storage we talked a little about you coming up here. We have a couple cars up here that need some help, and especially if I'm looking at a short-block replacement on my VR4 I would definately be interested in financing your trip up here and putting you up in my guest house. Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Bret

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San Marino Red - Honda 3KGT VR4 For the win!

I don't know if I can commit to that anymore with the new job I'm starting at the end of the month. OT is required and being that I'll be just starting, I don't think i'd be a good idea for me to take any time off for the first few months.

We'll have to play it by ear but I do still want to try and make it happen.

I'm also looking for a new place to live outside the ghetto and if it has a garage. If it does, I'm considering using it to work on cars on the side (1 at a time of corse) sos I can work on it for a couple hours at a time in my free time.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I certainly understand. You are still coming to the UMG right? Any tips for where I am at in the current process of the low oil-pressure repair.

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San Marino Red - Honda 3KGT VR4 For the win!

Well, how much $$ you got to spend?

You can do a new shorty for $2700 and enjoy another 100K of happy/carefree boosting.

OR

You can get your motor rebuilt with a new crank, bearings, rings, pistons, hone job, balanced blue printed for about $1700.

OR

You leave the motor in the car, drop the oil pan, replace the just the rod & main bearings & oil pump for about $500 and maybe another 5-10K out of your engine.

Greg, I already fixed it! I just put straight-weight SAE 50 oil in and ta-da! No more low oil-pressure. Haha, we'll at least that bought me another 5-10k miles.

Well, I'm certainly not interested in getting 5-10 more out of my engine. I could definately not afford the 2700. I probably could spring for the 1700 but I highly doubt the dealership will do it for that and I don't know anyone in West MIchigan that can, thus my inquiry to you coming up and my previous post months ago about reputable shops to do a rebuild. I think I may have to lean on the mi3si guys a bit and end up putting faith in a shop of their recommendation to do the rebuild.

So anyone reading this know good shops for rebuilds at reasonable shipping rates or anything in Michigan, nows the time to chip in, I could really use some help here. I want the rebuild that I keep driving the car until I die, not the rebuild that I put a sign in it right away after with a sign that reads "hey only 50 miles on the rebuilt engine" knowing it's going to fall apart in 5k miles.

Thanks, and hope to see you at the UMG with a running VR4!!! Hint Hint!

Bret

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San Marino Red - Honda 3KGT VR4 For the win!

Bret answer your phone

I have a garage bay open now so we can throw on a real oil pressure gauge.

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Matt
92 VR4

Yep, this is my first "mod" of the year. I'm not willing to take the flickering light's word for it that I have low oil pressure and, thus, an engine problem. I want to see what the actual psi readings are and go from there.... (Cursing and kicking things if somehow my 56k mile motor does have a problem.)

BTW, on this topic, can the flickering warning be as simple as the car idling too low? I think my car's idle might be abnormally low (I believe my datalogger reports around 580 rpms when I'm at warm idle). If that's the cause, would there be a solution? Just thowing it out there.

Yes. Your idle is definately too low and that can also cause too low of oil pressure.

It should be around 750rpms. Raising the idle is simple.

http://www.stealth316.com/images/check_connectors.jpg

See the brown plug? Take the cap off it, get a piece of wire, and touch the wire a nearby bolt & that connector. While you're holding it there, the motor should run a little rougher.

This means the ECU is in it's "setting mod" where you can back out the Basic Idle Set Screw on the throttle body without the ECU trying to compensate it. Back it out 1/2 a turn at a time till your idleing at about 800rpms (according to the logger, not the tach).

Thanks, Greg. Makes me feel a bit better. Maybe that's all my issue is -- 580 is what I remember, and that always seemed low to me. I'll try to get some updated numbers tonight when I start her up (for the first time since January) and actually drive her. Hello spring.

(BTW, don't know why your image isn't showing up, I was able to copy the URL and paste it into a browser to check it out.)

Thought I would post for Bret seeming as he is going drinking and may forget.

For starters his oil light was only flickering at idle and he was running some crappy 10w30. Now he is running the valvoline vr1 50weight and the light is not on.

At a warm/hot idle he had 35psi and at the lowest maybe 32. I've never measured the psi difference per oil weight, but Im thinking he is actually fairly safe for now. What do you guys think?

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Matt
92 VR4

35 psi at warm idle seems unnaturally high. Shouldn't it be more like 17-23?

Well look at what oil he is running for starters. But no I dont think its too high as long as he doesnt drive it in cold weather.

Heck Matt from Dynamics 3.7L is sitting at 55 at a warm idle I think he said, and it was at 75 until he changed washers in his oil pump.

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Matt
92 VR4

I didn't think straight 50 would make that much of a difference. Most people on 3si are running 10-40 and I sually see their warm idle at 17-23 psi. *shrug*

Was able to confirm my idle with the data logger today after driving around for 20 minutes or so. Logger jumped around between 530 and 630 at idle, but mostly jumped between 560 and 590. Looks like it's definitely low if 750 is the accepted correct idle. I could see this causing my oil pressure light to flicker -- hopefully that's all it is.

Yep. Bump it up a tad. Your target is 750-800.