So, let's say you're doing an intake pressure test to your car when you find the o-ring that is supposed to seal the rear innercooler pipe where it bolts to the rear turbo is leaking. It never fails, this ring almost always leaks on every single car that comes into the shop.

The reason is the rubber gets coated in oil from the rear head vent which pipes into the rear intake tube. *Relax* It's normal for your rear turbo, intake tube, and innercooler pipes to have a thin lining of oil in them. This doesn't necessarily mean your turbo is blown or anything.

Most of the time, cleaning the oil off the o-ring won't make it seal as it's dryed/worn out. There's a few things you can do to fix this:

#1. Purchase a new o-ring from Mitsu.
Be ready to shell out a rediculous amount of $$ for it. Even with our discount, I believe it's around $10 for this stupid thing.

#2. Take the old o-ring to the hardware store and try to find a similar one.
Hope you have all day to check multiple hardware stores though. Even if you do find one, chances are it's not quite shapped right and won't seal anyway.

#3. Wrap the ring with plumber tape a few times and reinstall the pipe.

I felt like experimenting with this on my car, and it worked great! Still no sign of leaking after 1000 boosted miles. It worked so well, I tried it on every boost leak I had.

Let's say you have vacuum caps or lines that keep blowing off nipples. Simply wrap the nipple a few times with the plumbers tape and reinstall the cap/line. Problem solved.

While we're on the subject of boost leaks, it's also common to find holes in vac hoses or cracks in the end of them. Black electrical tape works very well to fix these. Just wrap the end a few times and reuse the stock hose clamp. Easy as that.

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06 Blue EVO 9

You wrap the o-ring???

I always wrapped the groove on the intercooler pipe a couple times, not the o-ring.

And my paper manual from the dodge dealership says to use mopar lubricant # XXXX on the o-ring before installing. I've found they seal a tiny bit better with a thin coat of oil on them.

The o-ring is a fairly standard size. they have it at martin's hardware in Green Bay. I'll have to grab the size on of these times.

I've bought the mitsu one for (I thought) around 5 bucks and the 1.29 one from martins. they are the same. (I could be wrong n the mitsu pricing.)

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

FWIW, $7.53 after discount and tax is the Renner price.

$0.73 teflon tape FTW!!!

http://www.pslc.ws/macrog/kidsmac/activity/teflonta.htm

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Superjfly
'92 VR4

I was tlaking the black rubbery stuff, not teflon tape...?

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

Well, Greg said plumbers tape. That would mean white Teflon tape to me.

Yeah, I was referring to what Greg was talking about. Which makes sense to reduce or stop boost leaks because it is used for compressed air lines too. It doesn't leak up to the 125 PSI my compressor pushes. Then again that is on threaded line which is different than clamped line, but the point is that it helps make a seal.

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Superjfly
'92 VR4

I use teflon tape on my THREADED fittings also. well, the national pipe thread that seals on the threads deforming. the other seals, like -an line don't need it on the threads, as it seals on the mating surface.

If it is teflon tape, then sweet. I still think it's amazing that you wrap the o-ring though...

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

Good point!

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Superjfly
'92 VR4

If you remove the o-ring, then just wrap the pipe, it won't be near thick enough to seal right.

Clean the oil off the old o-ring, then wrap it.

Gregs right on both accounts:

1. Its never thick enough for a woman.

2. Its ALWAYS a good idea to wrap it.

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