When Im going up through the rpm's in any gear there is kind of a lound annoying noise that comes up at about 3k rpms in basically every gear. Not all the time but for the most part. I noticed this on a car i test drove before this one. The guy said it was a manifold leak. Just wondering if thats what it could be.

Does it sound like a goose? Occur at partial boost/throttle? If so, say hello to leaky blow off valve. Very common problem.

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

That's pretty funny.

Time for a pressure test. Make sure to pull out the BOV from the intake and cap the space with a D battery. Leave it attached to the y-pipe.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Screw it, I wanted a new bov anyway and a friend is gonna sell me is RFL for 130 so I'll just pick that up. Jesse don't you have that BOV, how does it work i've heard about problems from open air BOV in our cars.

take it for what it's worth... it's just my opinion.

problems schmoblems.

i ran an open loop bov for 3 years without any issue. car never died once during shift. ive been running an open loop on my track car the last season, no problems either.

others will disagree though. each to their own.

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

Don't do it. You'll run rich in between shifts. I don't care what you read on 3si, the problem is still there wether you notice it or not.

what about jesse's car? Its either the RFL or the Greddy

Next time you see Jesse's engine bay, you'll notice there's no more RFL. You can get whatever BOV you want and find out the hard way. I can give you lots of reasons why you shouldn't but... Backing up for a sec. You don't even know for sure the noise is the BOV. It could be a leak from the y-pipe gasket for all we know. Pressure test is free (i'll do it for you), and then we'll know for sure. Why spend $130 when you don't have to?

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06 Blue EVO 9

I agree. Pressure test first. It could be a 59 cent hose clamp that has gone beyond it's life expectancy. I've had about 3 fo those so far on my car. tighten them just one turn to much, stripped threads. Boost leak.

On the open/closed BOV discussion I had the nipple in my Greddy Type-S unplugged for about 6 months unintentionally. My car never stalled on me, but about once a week I cleaned ALOT of carbon off my bumper.

I have precat eliminators, downpipe, no cat, and a straight shot custom exhaust, and running on the (already) pig rich stock tune, so take it for what it's worth. I plugged the nipple and the BOV is a bit quieter, but the back of my car no longer looks like it's got a shitty black paint job.

and that was just the nipple on the bov...

my two cents.

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

Does it only happen under partial throttle and never under full throttle? If so, its probably the dreaded "honking goose." It litterly sounds like goose.

Its caused by the stock blow off valve leaking ever so slightly. Either the leaking air or disturbance of the air in the intake path causes the honking sound. The cure is to replace the BOV with any aftermarket one, or my favorite, the 1g DSM BOV.

later,
Curt

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Mike, see my earlier post about the RFL.

As a side note, the only reason the RFL isn't being used anymore on the maroon car is because it wasn't polished. The Forge BOV I have in there now, is. Otherwise, I'd still be running the RFL.

IMHO, claims about RFLs being junk are great overexaggerated. I've driven 3 cars with them now, (2 of mine, plus Steve Coppola's) and none of them have ever experienced any problem whatsoever. But, each to their own. Some claims about it are truth, some are just BS and exaggerations or "I heard that such and such...".

If you want a cost effective way of getting rid of the honking goose, the RFL does the trick. If you try it, and have problems, just sell it for the same price you bought it. Simple enough.

_________________

Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the BOV sucks at all. If it holds 20psi, that's great. I'm saying running an open loop BOV with the MAS in the stock position isn't a great idea, regaurdless if you notice the effects or not.

It is basically what curt described, it never happens under full throttle. I was planning on doing a BOV upgrade anyway. Its just that the RFL is 130 and the Greddy will be like 250 i think or close to that. I was planning on going with the greddy anyhow, but my friend has the RFL and will let me put it on and see what i think, if it has problems, off it comes and the greddy gets ordered. I might just stick it on for shits and giggles. Then order the Greddy anyhow. A friend of mine also has a greddy that i could try out, so I could then see for sure what I want. I'll try em both out and let you guy's know.

Greg, I would however still like to pressure test it. That way I can get rid of any smaller boost leaks that i might be having. The car most definatly won't be ready by the upper mid west, but when its done if we could do that that would be awsome.