As most of you know im tossed up between turbo-charging my car, or running nitrous. I thought about both and did some HP - cost. I could get the same HP(roughly) for a grand less with nitrous. So what are some pre-cautions with nitrous I would do a direct-port. The little thing that hooks up to the trottle body so when its open all teh way the nitrous flows in. (im not sure whats its called) So could ya guys help me out. Thanks a billion!!!

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Bryan Louis
I had a 3kgt...then some douche bag wanted to run into it.

Hey Bry,
I know we talked about it a little bit saturday, but I wanted to add some more.
I think you said you were looking for more street performance than track, right? If this is the case, go with a turbo set-up because its always there and safer to run on the street. Also nitrous use on the street is a huge fine if you get caught. Atleast down here it is. Some of the cops actually have exhaust testers in the car and use them if they catch street racers now. So they can tell if anything foriegn is in the fuel and exhaust. Yes, I know it sucks. But atleast we arent as bad as Cali, yet.

I'd get a turbo set-up similar to Roy's. Its a low boost set-up that seems to run well traction wise in his car. which is similar to ours. Just talk with him about it.

But back to the nitrous... I'd go with a dry 100 shot nx nitrous kit if you want to keep the costs down. Because you can run that with just a little added fuel. If you want to really get into the power, you can get a kit that acts like a turbo with full programmability. Such as the Venom kits or the new NOS nitrous controller. It allows you to open and close the vavle and control the power so you keep traction and dont lean out. Its all relative to rpms and throttle pressure.

Hope some of this helps.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Go with Nitrous if you're looking for quick/easy + cheep HP. It's the best bang for the buck mod you can do to your car.

...and it's only illegal if you have the bottle hooked up.

I've never used it though, nor can I point you in the direction of any good webpages with some good info. Sorry.

Yeah... But if you are gonna race on the street, it'll be hooked up. ;)

I've used it on different cars. Its fairly simple to use and does no more damage than adding the same HP through boost. It actually puts less wear and tear than boost when done right. Because the boost runs constantly and N2O is only used on occasion.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

I've heard dry shots were a waste of money compared to the wet shots, as they fail miserably in performance tests.

Why are you chosing dry Joe? Cheaper? He can get a deal on NX stuff up here in GB.

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2005 Saab Linear 2.0t - DD
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (Sandstone Grey) - SOLD!!
BPU 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T ATX - SOLD!!!

If you look at our intake manafold, its not designed to work well with a wet shot. You'll get very uneven performance from cylinder to cylinder.
Plus it is cheaper for the kits, but thats just a side factor.

For the most even flow, you need a separate fuel rail and inject nitrous and fuel into each cylinder per engine timing. I'm not sure how easy that would be with our engines, although the new NOS Nozzel kit is supposed to work well doing this. As it has a ring that piggybacks your injectors and sprays along with the reg fuel enough nitrous and fuel to get a perfect even ammount. I think it retails for like a grand just for the basic kit, though. Then you have to add all the gauges and EGT probes and such adter that.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

If he goes with direct port this shouldn't be much of an issue. I would go with a wet system. That way you are not dependent on the injectors which could have different flow rates. You would also need a fuel controllerwith a dry system, you should probabily get in either case.

If it was me I would go with both.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness