Topic says it all, hard run, ~12psi boost and letting off the gas causes a nice trail of blue smoke. I can also smell it inside the cabin with the windows down, I need to have the gaskets fixed on my test pipe to eliminate that, but if it sticks around it could be some sort of external leak I would assume.

There are no visible signs of smoke while boosting, cruising etc, only the above scenario. I'm unsure where to go next with this problem.

The block has been rebuilt recently, less than 5k miles ago, same with the heads, 3 angle valve job, seals, the whole nine yards. Jeff just recently replaced the head gaskets on the car and fixed my timing which cured a lot of wierd pops in the exhaust at idle, and running rich and really brought the car alive.

I've tried Krank Vents and that doesn't seem to fix the issue, there is some oil in my intake pipes aswell. I got these turbo's off ebay, supposedly rebuilt, I thought they looked ok, so did Jeff just visually checking them when he had stuff apart.

Whats the best way to track this down? I have a lot of bias towards the turbo's being the cause but I don't really have a way to verify it.

Comments?

-Nick

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Blue smoke=oil.

I'm going to guess rings.

Jeff? Greg? Adam? Fry? B....

SJ

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Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

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A lot of times smoke on decelleration is leaky valve seals. On my Spyder, that can happen sometimes. Also a faulty PCV valve can cause this. One time I had replaced the hose going from the back valve cover to the intake pipe. The new hose had a kink in it. That was enough to cause a blue smoke cloud that would make Batman proud on deceleration.

later,
Curt

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I would hope it wouldn't be the rings or valve seals since I just paid $1700 for the engine and heads to be completely redone last summer.

About the valve cover hose, my bend isn't the best from the PCV -> Krank Vent -> Intake, it could be getting kinked when I close the hood if at all, I'll try to make it cleaner and see if it has any effect.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Pull off your intake tubes, see if your turbos still spin. I betcha one doesn't spin very freely.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Well, I believe I found the source of the burning oil smell, I put on the stock oil cap and it blew out enough oil to soak that corner of the valve cover and was dripping on the manifold. I would say it could be because of a faulty PCV valve, but I have krank vents, they are installed properly, and there are no crimped lines. With the front I also checked the stocker to make sure it blew in the right direction with it daisy chained to the krank vent and all is well with it.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Any way to test the rings? Is it possible to hold the wastegates open and see what happens without boost? Jeff has done a compression test a week or two ago and all cylinders were about 120~ psi cold, all within 5psi of each other.

Thanks,

Nick

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

you could disconnect the rods to the wastegate actuators. then just use some bailing wire to hold the flapper in the open position. that would make sure the gates open.

sounds like positive pressure in crank case to me. go captain obvious. AH HOY!

so now you just need why. maybe swap out the krank vents for a stock check valve. they are only 12 or so bucks new... Or just unhook the pressure line. you won't have vacuum in the crank case, but then you shouldn't have pressure either...

my 2 cents. good luck.

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

Pull off the crank vent and try to blow thru it.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I personally don't like the Krank Vents.

SJ

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Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

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In a previous post I've already found that the Krank Vents flow freely in only one direction. The stock PCV Valve is currently installed in-line with the krank vent and also flows correctly, even seems to leak a little unlike the Krank Vent.

ttangel: It does sound like positive crank case pressure for sure, the reason why I purchased krank vents. What really sucks is Jeff had the whole damn engine apart, I should have just asked to have my whole engine checked out, not just the heads I'm determined to get this damn thing running correctly

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Well that's good -- a new PCV valve is cheap.

I know exactly how you feel. In fact, I've felt the same way. I've been pondering and tinkering over this PCV system since 1998. Made just a few mistakes along the way...

I've found, however, that it ain't all cut and dry with them. That's why I prefer the two catch cans. This whole closing and blocking thing is just one more thang that can fail IMHO.

Just my 2-hp.

SJ

_________________


Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

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http://ummo.boards.net

How can I prove that the rings are bad, I have the money to drop another grand into it - no problem, I just don't want to unless its necessary to fix the problem.

Also, if im understanding this right, if the crank case is being pressurized and the PCV system is not letting air out quickly enough. At the same time during deceleration its basically sucking and pushing oil right past the rings?

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

A cylinder leak down test would give you an idea of the condition of the rings. Air bypassing through the plenum is intake valves, bypassing out the muffler is exhaust valves and air bypassing into the crankcase is usually rings.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z91/ ... arpic4.jpg

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z91/ ... arpic5.jpg

What machine work is usually required if the rings aren't seated properly?

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1991 Stealth RT/TT