I want something better than stock, I was looking at the ACT2100 street disk. Not sure about a lightweight flywheel. Any combo I can get for $500 or less? What else is good for clutches? Anybody have experience with replacing these that wants to help? I'll supply the beer and food. Looking at some time next month or early April, I don't think my clutch will make it much longer than that.

well you'll spend close to 500 just for a good clutch. but I would definately recomend a lightened flywheel. for the pair you will probably end up spending arround 800 give or take 100 or so. If you go with the fianza flywheel make sure you have it balanced before it gets put on or you might end up with big problems. the rps flywheel comes prebalanced. as far as a clutch I would either go with the dxd stage III or the ACT2600 with the 6 puck sprung hub disk and heavy engagement pressure plate if you plan on doing any serious modding.


Craig

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before you can get to know someone, you must first learn who you are.

love is like a box of chocolates.. you never know what you got tll its gone..............

Why? What's wrong with the stock one? It's not any more expensive. Just call up one of the dealers that will honor our discount for a new one, and I can recommend a good machine shop that can resurface the flywheel.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I'd say just get a discounted stock clutch along with a lightweight flywheel. Unless you hit the track hard and often, the stock clutch will last a really long time.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

that's what I was wondering. If I leave everything stock will I notice any difference in performance between the stock clutch and say the act 2100 street disk? I know I can get the stock flywheel reground, just not sure if I want to. You see, I got the approval to spend a little cash on the clutch job, so I figure I might just get something good. blah, blah, blah. Maybe I can sneak some other mods in there when I buy the clutch and not mention them

A

No.

I've noticed, unlike a DSM, the stock clutches are very good on these cars. In your case, a stronger pressure plate (which isn't even that much stronger) is a waste of $$. Spend that extra money on new master and slave cylenders. Most guys (DSMers that is) use the ACT pressure plate with the stock clutch disk. There are reasons for this.



Meh, we've talked about this before. You know my take on that.

Granted I've got a TT and not an NA, but I agree the general consensus is that the stock clutches aren't that bad. Mine has seen over 40 launches from around 4k-5k without any slippage. Can't complain about that.

I wouldn't bother with a fancy clutch or flywheel myself. Not unless you're planning on going bonkers modding it.

Try using the excuse of, "they dont make clutches for these anymore, I'll have to buy a TT now".

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

he, he, he

Yeah, buy a TT and then miraculously find a clutch later. Then we will have 3 3s's. Good thinking! I guess then I'll have to kick Kyle out so I have enough driveway space for all the vehicles. I think I'll have to go that route.
So it looks like the general consensus is to replace the clutch with stock, have the flywheel resurfaced and spend the other $300-400 on something else. The question is what should I get then? Or do you think I should save it for a rainy day?

IMHO (note... IMHO) I think modding an NA is a waste. You can spend a boatload of money on them, do TT conversions, and still not be as fast as a stock TT. There has only been four NA's that has run faster than 14.xx in the 1/4 mile, and for three out of the four that was WITH juice. Seems better to save all that cash for a true TT and do it right. I'd save the $300-400 for future repairs maybe . Or to put towards Jesse's upgraded turbos fund.

Not to say you can't make an NA fast. Joe's '94 RT is fairly quick but I still don't think he'd pace with a stock TT. Maybe from a roll he'd have a shot, but not from a stop.

Jesse

I can see the NA Fury guys fuming already... Bring it on.

_________________

Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

the NA fury is strong. you TT guys are jealous !!!!!

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Bryan Louis
I had a 3kgt...then some douche bag wanted to run into it.

HAHAHAHAHA! Bryan, you crack me up.

But as I said before, dont bother with a aftermarket clutch. I only went to a stage 2 because I got a good deal on it($250 shipped). I'm also 40 or so hp over stock and over 55k miles on it with 1000's of hard launches and shifts. Still no slipping at all. So I think even a stock clutch would last me 40k or so with the way I drive. For you, it would probably last forever if you dont beat it up.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Buy a new master and slave cylender. This will also fix your cruise control problem. Good time to check out the clutch lines too (the rubber one above the tranny) for any cracks. Also a good time for some BG syncho shift for the tranny.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I guess what I am going to do is sit on it until it breaks. We'll see just how many miles the original clutch will go. Who knows, maybe I'll get another year out of it. Or maybe the motor will blow up next week or somethin. Whatever the case may be, I think I'll just wait. More than likely I'll be doing it before the end of summer anyhow. Why rush it ya know? But, for when it does happen what should be on the list of parts to get?

Clutch disk and Pressure Plate (they come together)
flywheel (resurface)
throwout bearing
axel seals (they will leak)
tranny fluid
brake fluid

Might be a good idea to consider:
master + slave (I have heard of rebuild kits but donno what comes with them)
shifter cable bushings
axel boots
clutch hose

To add to Greg' list:
I recomend:
Fidanza flywheel
3SX Clutch line

_________________
~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)