Hello, Gentlemen!

I recntly purchased a '91 twin cam Stealth R/T automatic FWD, NON-TURBO at a local auto auction.

Engine seems to run fine, but ABS light is on, AND trans does'nt shift properly, improper engage in drive, does'nt shift UP, but strong as an ox in reverse, with NO slippage.
From past experiences, (though NOT with Stealth), I believe these to be related problems, with trans/speed sensors, or controls. Since reverse is strong, 1st gear should be mechanically sound too, right?

Are the pulse generators a good place to start? Is there a speed sensor? Could it be the TPS? Or TCU?

I know the ABS system must get speed input(s), and some 4x4 vehicles do this at the transfer case, or trans, hence the relation.

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

speed sensors at each wheel. I have a bad one right now and the abs light is on and off at random. New speed sensor is about $150 IIRC.

Check trans fluid level if you haven't done so.

It's easy to change, so you might as well try that next.

After that, I dunno what to tell you.

Good luck and welcome to W3SI!

Aaron

Thanx 4 the info, a923kgt!

I have'nt pulled the codes yet, gotta get an LED.

My ABS is on always, wanted to know if trans or engine speed data is used by ABS, pulse gens track input and output shaft speeds.

~manik

P.S. How can I post a photo of my Stealth on this site, or in/with a post?

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

ABS has a G-sensor located under the center consol and the sensors in the wheel wells are just photo sensors to detect if the wheel is spinning or not. There's no communication between the ABS computer and the ECU.

If the light is always on, might I suggest jacking up the front/passenger side of the car, removing the wheel, and forward wheel well cover. The ABS pump is located in there. It's easy to spot as it has brake lines going to/from it.

You'll find there are 2 relays on the ABS unit. Pull them out and inspect the connectors for road grim/rust. Clean in necessary. Reinstall and see what happens.

This works about 50% of the time. It's also come up as ABS pump error from the diagnostic conector (gotta double check the exact code name and number in my manual when I get home).

As for the tranny, go in this order:

First I'd check for codes. That will tell you right away if one of the shift control solenoids are bad.

If that checks out, the TCU is located under the radio by the ECU. Might I suggest you remove the unit, open the case, and inspect it for leaky caps. You can use another TCU in your car so long as the part numbers match.

If that checks out, I'd suggest you check the voltage of your TPS at idle. I can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but if you have access to a 1G DSM pocketlogger, TMO, or MMCD software, the % should be 11-12% at idle, and 100% at WOT.

If that checks out, THEN I'd suggest dropping the tranny pan, remove the fitler & valve body, and examine the valve body for any pinched wires or broken connectors.

If that checks out, then you're going to need a tranny rebuild but I doubt it'll come to that.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Tanks 4 yer quik reply, G-ELL!!

So, I have at least 2 separate problems, trans and ABS.

I'll check each item you've pointed out, and report back with results.

Is there a specific resistance/range for the TPS, I don't have a DSM pocket logger, that's why I'll be reading codes with an LED. I do have a DMM to check with.

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

Yes there is, but I don't have my manual handy. Gonna have to report back later tonight.

You could try a search on www.3si.org/forum in the mean time. I'm sure someone has posted the value range at least once before.

What auto auction was this at? Do you need to have a dealers license to attend?

A quick thing to try with the tranny.

Many people who work on these cars have NO idea of what they're doing. If that tranny was ever worked on, it's entirely possible they hooked the wiring up INCORRECTLY - common mistake.

On the top of tranny, you will find (2) four pin connectors. If they are not hooked up correct, tranny will always be in third or reverse, regardless of which "forward" gear you place it in ( safe mode). Switch the connectors and go for a ride - very easy and worth the two minutes.

A guy on 3SI was having the same problem a week ago. After a day of posting back and forth, he finally relented and switched the wires. Works great now.

This will only "fix" it if they are hooked up incorrectly - and since you just purchased it and don't know what previous owner may have done, it's worth a try. These two connectors appear to be identical, which is why people commonly hook them up wrong.

No dealer license to attend/buy, but there is a $255 buy fee for each car purchased. I go there regularly to watch the "parade" , and MAYBE get a good deal on a rare car. It's only 20 miles from me, and auctions are held twice weekly. I have a permanent bidder card, (golden paddle), and can take friends along anytime.

This time of year, it's hard to get good deals, because the crowd has tax refund checks to spend, and they bid too high on most cars. None of the cars are perfect, many are donated cars, others are dealer or consignment cars, so buyer beware. I've done this for quite some time, and am very good at buying used cars. Generally I only pull 12 0r so cars out of there annually. This is the time of year to sell cars thru the auction, rather than buy, in most cases. But, sometimes a good one slips thru, like the Stealth. Most the public bidders can't drive stickshift, and most don't want a rare, or hard to get fixed model. This is my niche.

I'd post a photo of this Stealth here, if I could find out how.

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

Help: http://www.w3si.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1595 ... Let's see some pics!

The reason I ask is because I am looking to get rid of my winter beater and buy a normal every day car. Looking for something in the 3 to 4k range.

I'm going this afternoon, leaving K-town between 4 & 4:30.

I'll keep an eye out for a normal car 4 U, what's your preferance, 2 or 4 doors? Car or SUV/truck?

I'll check back here before I take off.[/quote]

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

hey manik,

Can you keep your eyes open for me on a 97+ chevy or ford full size 4wd ex cab?

I'm looking to spend about $5k. Prefer manual over auto, but either can work. No rust is important, mileage is not.

Need to have a truck by mid-May. Do you see much out there that would meet my request?

Thanks
Aaron

I don't see any trucks meeting 'yer needs on the list, but I'll see what's there.

Y'all could meet me at Brat Stop between 4:30 & 5pm, auction is 20 miles away, starts at 6pm, gotta inspect 'em before they roll! About 125 cars to look over in 30 minutes, no inspection once auction starts.

I go on wed. eves, and Sat. morns. every week, join me for some fun!

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Auto collector/restorer one man show
over 20 projects in line, AMC, Buick, Chevys, Corvette, Datsun, Dodge, Durant, Eagle, Ford, Honda, IH, Jeep, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Porsche, Reatta, S'Cool Bus, 1950's Trucks

I'd be interested in going Saturday morning with you. Do you have to pay cash on the spot?