Hey everybody, here's the situation in mid-November I pulled my car into the garage with it really low on gas. Gas light was on but car was still running and would have made it to the gas station just down the road. I had planned on filling it up and putting some Sta-bil in it for the winter. Well, before I got a chance to do that, I went into the hospital for two weeks with Menegitis and by the time I was able to get out and actually get in the car again it was the beginning of the year. I put in new gauges and assumed that when I got that done I'd charge the battery and go put in gas. Got the gauges done and tried to start it and it will crank but won't catch. G-Ell came over and we did a spark test and found no spark. We then checked the compter and found that one of the capacitors had leaked onto the circutboard. I tried to get a remaned one but had little luck. I ended up sending mine in to get rebuilt. I went and put a couple gallons of gas in and some Heet while I waited for my computer to get back. I recieved the computer, plugged it in, tried to start the car and the exact same thing. Cranks and just won't catch. Again I do a spark test and nothing. I feel confident that the reman company did what they were supposed to and they even cleared all my codes for me. Any ideas on what could cause this???? Please! What should I look for with this. Are coil packs problematic with these cars? If I can't come up with something I'm goi8ng have to push the car out into the street and have it flatbedded to the dealer where I full expect to pay $8,000,000,000 to have it fixed. Right after I bought it I replaced the plugs. It ran like a champ when I drove it in the garage, and now no spark. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks!

The leaky caps weren't your problem! Damn. That board looked pretty rough. Thought for sure that was the problem.

There's still a couple more things to look at starting with the power transistor. Believe there's a procedure in the manual for testing this. I'll give you a hollar later this week...

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06 Blue EVO 9

I'm assuming you checked spark by pulling off the plugs from the coils and cranking the engine, right? No spark at all? That blows. I'd have to agree with Greg and the first thing to check would be the Power Transistor Unit since your ECU has already been replaced.

Actually, one other thing worth trying is replacing your ECU with a known good unit from someones car. I know yours was repaired, but I just read about someone on 3SI who had trouble starting his car too, sent out his ECU, put it in, still didn't work, changed a boatload of other shit to no avail and finally swapped in another ECU and BAM, it worked. So it's possible your ECU isn't fully fixed but who knows. Keep that in mind.

Other than that, go with the PTU, though I'm not sure how to test it, there's probably info in the repair manual. There's gotta be a way to check to see if the ECU is trigging voltage at the transistor to turn it on and off. With the rapid rate it does this though to charge the ign coils, I'd imagine the only effective way to read this would be with an oscillisope. You probably won't be able to determine jack with a standard voltmeter.

Also, does your check engine light come on and go off when trying to start the car? I believe if everything checks out OK for diags, it comes on for 5 seconds then should go OFF. Make sure to check that.

Oh. and check fuses too... you'd be very surprised. And check the ground wires to the coils too. No ground, no worky. I doubt it's the coils themselves, I've never heard of them going bad on any 3/S before.

Right now, my best guess is still your ECU. PTU's don't seem to go wrong very often, although they have on occasion so it's worth a shot.

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

Ok, got the service manual and copied the page on testing the PTU. A friend is coming Wed. to help me test it. At this point I hope it is that. Checked the fuses, ground and opened up the remaned ECU to see what was done. Looks like everything is kosher there. My check engine light doesn't come on for five seconds though. Talked to the mechanic at Don Miller and he didn't know his ass from his elbow or did anyone else around the place. All I could get was it could be a lot of things, as if I didn't already know that. Now I'm hesitant to take it in there because I don't want them throwing a ton of expensive parts at it, all the time guessing. I think if I have to have dealer work done to it I'll have it done at the Mitsubishi dealer in Madison. The one good thing is that the PTU's are still around and will take a couple of days to get. This whole thing really burns me because I spent a ton of time on the car this winter and as soon as it's time when it gets nice out, I want to roll. Still have to have the front axles replaced and this shit is going to chew up that money and maybe more. Could this be some sort of cam sensor or something?

I doubt it. That connector was the first thing I looked at.

Just a thought, did you get that water temp gauge probe tapped? Did you happen to unplug the coil pack and not hook them back up?

I tried calling you last Friday. Do you have an evening open this week? Don't take it to the dealer. We'll get it figured out.

I'm open all week let me know when you want to do it. I'll leave my computer off line so the phone line won't be busy. You can call me at work to 257-1010. thanks. Hey glad to hear that you got your window fixed. I like the defi gauges. I could definetly see those in your car. Looks like the PTU is a ain to get at. It looks like I'll have to disconnect some radiator hoses and shit to test it. We will see I guess. What have you heard about Kayser's service dept.? That was very cool of Jesse to help out with your TT storage problem.

Hey guys,

I got the service manuals from the Dodge dealer. I did the manual test on the power transistor unit and everything checked out. Ground was good. Fuses were okay. Cracked open my computer(even though it voided the warrenty), that seems very good. It doen't seem to me that a company would put a warrenty on it if they didn't feel that it was checking out alright. Did the manual test on the coil pack, again fine. Checked the plugs and wires, good. The only thing I didn't check is the crank angle sensor. Service manual doesn't say how. It only shows how to replace it. So I'm out of ideas and will shortly be taking the car to the dealer to let them f with it. At this point I'm pretty disgusted and am tired of screwing with it no progress. Maybe they can hook up the computer to it and pull a code for the reason it won't start. So this week or so I'll have to get a friends trailer, push the car out of the garage and up onto it. Sounds like fun eh! Put new cv axles in my DSM this week and it's fortunate that I can tow it with the Ram and still have two other sound vehicles to get around with. By the way I ordered the service manuals on cd-rom off ebay for the car and I believe that there is other year Stealths and 3000's on it to. When I get them I'll check it out and maybe I can anyone else with the info. I absolutly love my R/T TT, but right now she's being a ice cold bitch! I guess the only way I'll get her to warm up is throw some money at her.

Do yourself a favor and swap in another ECU. Yeah yeah, you had it repaired, but try it anyways, I've heard TOO many stories of repaired ECU's NOT working after they get them back. There's more than just caps that go bad on those things.

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

Know anybody that has one that would be willing to help?

What year car you have? I have a working 91-TT ECU that I could loan you temporarily to try. The 2 catches are:

1. I *HAVE* to get the car running first to make sure I didn't screw anything up with my engine this winter during the tear-down. I should be able to do this within a week.

2. I would need it back within 2-3 days tops. I've still gotta drive over to Jeff's to get my control arms put on soon...

Otherwise, just post a msg on the board, and see if anyone else that has the same ecu as you would loan it for a day or so.

_________________

Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

I have a 92 R/T TT. That would be great if you could lend me that for a day when you get the car set again. I'd drive there and get it and bring it back same day. How's your winter projects been going?

Email me offline at jrink@wi.rr.com

We'll see if we can work something out.

_________________

Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

Well, haad the car flatbedded to Don Miller Dodge today. I'll let you know what they find. Thanks for eveyones help and advice.

I know there isnt a cheap way out when you take it to the dealer, but i hope its not anything too outrageous. Keep us posted, and good luck in figuring out what seems to have everone stumped.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Okay, today I got a call at work from a service writer at Don Miller Dodge and says that if I got a chance to come see him today. So I walk across the street and see what he wants. He tells me that my 92 Stealth R/T TT can't be worked on. He said that is has too much aftermarkert stuff on it. Apparently a turbo timer, a bov, and a secondary security system are just too much for a dealer to handle. Service writer said that for the tech to work on my car that all the aftermarket stuff would have to be removed. Bullshit, I didn't spend seven weeks putting in new gauges in the dash so some jackass could tell me that if I wanted my car serviced I'd have to tear that all out. The writer said, "There is something by your air intake, what is that?" I wanted to punch him right in the face. I responded, " that's the bov". It's amazing that this car was sold at the exact same dealer 12 year ago and they know jack about it. So next I call the service manager on the westside Don Miller Dodge location and he says " No problem bring it on over". Call a flatbed. As I'm walking out of the service dept. pissed as hell the service manager says, "How did your car come out?" I replied, "Your low rent tech won't even take a look at it because it has a turbo timer and a alarm on it." Service manager says, "They won't even look at it!. We're slow as hell right now and they won't look at it. They better look at it or they won't have a job." I cancelled the flatbed. Service manager said that they will put the car inside tonight and hook up the computer to it first thing in the morning. I told him that I will be periodically checking in through the day to see what the f was going on with my car and I expect it fixed properly. Pray for me!!!