The old bottles of Mobil 1 said "fully synthetic" on the outside... and I heard through the rumor mill that Amsoil tested and found that the mobil 1 was not infact, fully synthetic... just a rumor I heard. no idea if it's true or not.
But anyways, Some people theorize that that is why the old mobil 1 got canned, and replaced by the extended life stuff. that, and I believe when Amsoil first came out, they promised to extend oil changes in normal vehicles to 15,000 miles... if you followed there directions... which involved changing all fluids to amsoil, and running there, or specified filters, and you had to re-change your oil at 100 miles, 300 miles, and 3000 miles right away, then you would get there warranty... that's from the GB expo center when Amsoil first came out, and my cousin Craig was looking at switching over... (certified mechanic, and now builds race engines with my uncle.) he couldn't justify the cost at that time, so never did it. (Amsoil was UBER expensive back then, and changing all that oil up front ment zero savings unless you were going to drive the wheels off something, and even then, the warranty had a few loop holes)
Back to the current day though, show me where *on the bottle* of 15w50 extend life motor oil it says fully synthetic... I've looked... The best I can come up with is synthetic
blend. now, I haven't gone onto there website, or anything, and researched this new oil, but that right there tells me something...
Also, my choice in oils comes from hanging out with many guys who have blown up many race engines. more 400 ci small block chevies than most people have seen. and enough 350 chevs to make most racers cry. If you want to listen to the guy that runs oil in his *one* engine, and claims everything is honkey-doory, go ahead... I'll listen to the guy that has blown up every motor, and seen what ever motor oil did in an engine, thank you very much. There is a lot to learn from failure.
The 6g72 is put together with tight tolerances, high heat, and especially the one in OUR CARS, is a race derived version of a minivan motor. the basic 6g72 was a SOHC that made somewhere around 160 hp. The ones were run make 320. while this is a gross generalization, one thing holds true, it is based off that motor. 15w50 is a race derived oil.
Is 10w40 or 10w30 ok? Sure. Probably even make a bit more hp because it is a tad thinner. Believe it or not, but switching oil can have a fairly large difference on a dyno. seen it first hand.
As far as 10w30 is the oil of choice... I'll have to check my owners manual on that one... but I'm not so sure... I'll check it tonight when I get home.
Synthetic VS dino...
Wow, this debate has come up way to often.
I've talked to guys at Exxon. I've talked to Turbocharger manufactures. I've talked to Oil for Turbocharger Experts. (turbos on planes, slight difference than cars, but still carries over a bit...) They pretty much all say the same thing.
You can switch back and forth from dino to synthetic ant ANY time.
Sythetic is better because it will have a better tolerance for shearing and breaking down under extreme circumstances and temperatures. (ie: a REALLY freaking hot, high rpm turbo bearing) Synthetics prevent coking of a turbo better. Not so much to worry about on coolant fed turbos, but the possiblity is still there. Also, some of us don't have coolant fed turbos...
Sythnetics
typically have better, and more cleansing and abuse additives. believe it or not, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
That being said, I'm running pennsoil 20w50 dino in my car right now. why? Because it's a buck a quart, and while I'm tuning the car in, I change it every 100~200 miles (or whenever it smells like gas), because I am the suck at tuning, and don't want to frag my bearings from gas getting in the oil from running to rich. This happens a lot faster than people want to admit or realise.
once I get it dial in, I fully intend on going back to 15w50. not only because I have a RACE ENGINE (far more hp than mitsu EVER intended there little moter to see), but also my car has 115,000 miles on it, and that means that the bearings tolerances have opened a bit... because as wear happens, they sure as hell don't
close up.
anywho. that's my story. you now know what is bouncing around in my defunked little brain. use the information, don't use the information, call me a liar, or a cheat, but don't say I didn't share.
Sidenote: I've also used Lucas oil stabalizer... I wouldn't recommend it...
AND DON"T USE FRAM ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ESPECIALLY OIL FILTERS.
