I've been tackling the keyless entry problem with my SL for the last couple days. I've practically memorized the diagrams for the entire locking system for our cars from staring at the manual for so long.

When I got the car, the remote was hidden in the truck with no battery. The screw that holds it together was missing, along with the gasket, and the metal piece that goes around the battery which connects it to the circuit board (for power).

Well, I got a new battery for it, folded up a piece of tin foil as a substitute for the metal piece for the battery, and reassembled the remote. The LED now lights up when I press the button. Went out to the car to program it and the doors still wouldn't respond.

Tested every relay, inspected both grounds (one in the truck #10, one up behind the dash #5) replaced blown fuses (found a couple), pulled out the receiver, opened it up, looked it over, and found nothing wrong. At this point I nearly pulled my hair out.

So, for the heck of it, I pulled out the remote for the TT and programmed it. Sure enough it works! Back into the house, open the original remote up, pulled out the board and found something interesting.

There is a very small 4v capacitor on the top corner of the board. It leaked fluid which ate all the way thru it. I think I can fix it with a little patience and a new capacitor.

For the heck of it, I opened up the remote for the TT and found the cap is also leaking!! Hasn't damaged the board yet, but it will die very soon. I wish I had a digital camera so I can show pics of what I'm talking about.

Both remotes are the 2 button versions.
FCC ID: E4EG8DA
G8D-281M-A

Anyone else notice this?

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06 Blue EVO 9

What type of cap? A radial or a surface mount? If its a radial type and depending on the value I could probably snag you one in the shop for when I come down saturday.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

What's the difference?

Surface mounts are tiny as hell, can type capacitors have 2 wire leads..

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Yeh, it's really small. It's blue and has 2 leads.

I can only make out the writing 4 volt and 32A.

Hmm no farad ratings? Like 1uF, 1pico-farad .. etc? If you snap a picture I might be able to get something for you.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

22uF

I'll try to find something, got a rough estimate on the height / width?

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Hmm, I'll have to pull mine apart and check mine.
I'll check at work tomarrow also and see what I can find.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

Best I could do is put 2 10uF in series to get around 20uF. However im not sure what the capacitor is being used for so it might not work.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

you better check with verfer before wiring two in series...

can you do that with capacitors or do you have to add the inverse... or whatever. I feel asleep in those classes, and had way to many beers since then to remember off the top of my head.

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Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

There's no space on the board for 2 caps. The cap is really small. Less than 1/4" long.

Doh sorry not in series but parallel... lol Series I believe increased the amount of voltage you can run through them, where parallel increases the capacitence. Resistors are pretty much the opposite.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Depending on how its being used you can use a slightly larger one, but im not sure how the remote works so its probably a good idea to get one the exact same specs.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

I don't see running a more powerful one as being a problem. As long as it fits anyway...

I've done it in an ECU before with no ill effects.