Recently my clutch has not been wanting to disengage. I have the pedal adjusted out as far as it can go.

When I first start the car up the pedal gets soft and the clutch barely disengages. After driving around for a few minutes the clutch slowls gets stiffer and eventually works almost normally again.

I bought some new fluid so I'm going to change that tonight and see if it helps at all. I can't find any leaks or anything like that, and it is still full, just kind of dark looking.

So I'm just wondering if anyone else has any ideas. The slave cylinder seems to move just fine when the pedal is pushed in, but I havent gotten any exact measurements on how far it moves.

I just find it weird that it slowly gets better after the car is driven for a bit.

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http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

What's the pressure plate rating on the DXD clutchs?

Do you still have the stock rubber clutch line or have you installed a SS one?

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06 Blue EVO 9

First of all bleed the line to make sure there are no bubbles in it. Best deal is to put a speed bleeder on it it and just keep on bleeding it till all the nasty fluid is out.

Second, which way are you adjusting the clutch pedal? If you look at the side of the stud that you turn, are you making it come out more or less on your side (not the firewall side)

Lastly, you can buy a dsm extended slave pin. That is what I will be putting in mine if mine snaps another stock pin.

I bled the old fluid out of there last night, it was pretty dark and nasty. I also have a stainless steel line on the car. And the stud on the pedal is adjusted to stick out towards the firewall as far as it will go. I can't move the shift fork at all by hand, so i'm assuming its' pushing up against the pressure plate.

So after bleeding that fluid the clutch feels stiffer, but i'm still having the same disengagement problem. I wasn't able to find out the exact pressure rating for that clutch.

Maybe one of those extended pins would help, unless something else is causing the problem.... I'm stumped right now.

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http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

You have it adjusted the wrong way. Adjust it towards the back of the car. Lengthening the rod, brings the "friction point" (where the clutch grabs) higher up the pedal travel.

So right now I have it adjusted so the stud is almost out of the pedal towards the firewall, so I should bring it back in? I had it like that and the pedal barely has any pressure then. I'll give it a try after work tonight.

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http://roycormier.net
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo

You have it adjusted all the way to the edge of the rod? The edge away from the black rubber vac assist bolster? If so, then that is the correct way.

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06 Blue EVO 9