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ttangel
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Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:44 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Sometimes the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump resistor can crap out.
If it is running for a short time, and you think it's fuel related, run some wire from the battery straight to the pump, then start the car. It should not die due to fuel starvation then. if it runs, you know your problem lies with that.
Or, try puting your ECU into another first gen car, and see if that car runs, that will rule out or tell you it's the ECU.
change your plugs anyway. pick up some cheap copper ones. If did run rich and foul them, that could be your problem too, as now they don't want to run.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What kind of pump? How old? Could that be the problem? Maybe it is making a lot of noise, but not much flow.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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a2j
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:47 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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haven't touch the car for more than a week now. seems to me that I don't have spark and fuel. I tied running wire to the pump and no luck.
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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ttangel
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:35 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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a2j wrote: haven't touch the car for more than a week now. seems to me that I don't have spark and fuel. I tied running wire to the pump and no luck. wait. you tried running a wire to the pump and no luck? What does that mean? The fuel pump didn't run? Or the car still didn't work right? If you ran a wire to the fuel pump off the battery directly and it didn't run, then that means the battery is dead or the fuel pump is completely fried. No spark and no fuel means something electronic is not allowing those two systems to function correctly. Possibly MFI or ECU. Where else do those two systems cross...?
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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cenatix
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Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 9:08 am |
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 pm Posts: 85 Location: WI
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Or cam angle sensor. If it's disconnected or faulty, the ECU will not know the camshaft position and will not fire the coil and injectors.
I still think it's his ECU.
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a2j
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Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:55 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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could somebody test my ECU ?
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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a2j
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Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:46 am |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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also, where is my CAS and how do I check it?
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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a2j
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:09 am |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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I can't find the cas yet. I know for a fact that I don't have spark and 99% sure that - no fuel. so... electrical problem. I would like to know if it ECU or not. where and how can I test it. can some shop/dealer test ecu for me, or I have to hook it up to a different car? I'm already looking at aem ems v2. not cheap. 
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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a2j
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:39 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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if my ecu is bad, will new cap fix it? or the whole unit is junk? I ordered some caps and will replace them asap.
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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cenatix
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:55 pm |
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 pm Posts: 85 Location: WI
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a2j wrote: I can't find the cas yet. I know for a fact that I don't have spark and 99% sure that - no fuel. so... electrical problem. I would like to know if it ECU or not. where and how can I test it. can some shop/dealer test ecu for me, or I have to hook it up to a different car? I'm already looking at aem ems v2. not cheap.  The 1G CAS is mounted on the rear head on the P/S side under the throttle body. It looks very similar to a 1G DSM CAS and has similarities to a distributor. Two bolts should be holding it in place. Look for disconnected or broken wires. You should be able to test the voltages at the pins at the CAS to verify the ECU is supplying power and receiving signals from the CAS. I believe the CAS uses a hall effect sensor so it should show +5 or +12v to the signal wire (to ECU) when the sensor passes a trigger point (vane). Or it could be an optical sensor - I'm not really sure as I never had a reason to look into this partciular system. Also, I do not know what the voltages should be or the pinout arrangements, so it may be of help to get a wiring diagram to know for sure. As I mentioned before you should be able to remove the CAS and spin the shaft to simulate cam/crank position & engine speed. You may have to ground the body of the CAS if the sensor uses the body as a ground. And make sure you don't install it 180* backwards. If your ECU is good, you should get an RPM signal & spark & and hear your fuel injectors clicking.
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cenatix
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 3:03 pm |
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 pm Posts: 85 Location: WI
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a2j wrote: if my ecu is bad, will new cap fix it? or the whole unit is junk? I ordered some caps and will replace them asap. Installing new capacitors is a good start. You can get them for around $5 or maybe $3 at Radio Shack. Just make sure you install the new caps with the correct polarity. Go over the solder side of the PCB and check for any signs of cracked solder. Any components showing signs of excessive heat, I would test. Wipe down the entire PCB with some lint free cloth & isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. It will remove any flux residue and other gunk that may have built up over the years.
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a2j
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:00 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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if this is the cas, then I don't have it: http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas-91-92.htmI was looking for it on the driver side. but its pita and I will wait till I get the caps replaced and go from there, before I take anything else apart.
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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cenatix
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:07 pm |
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 pm Posts: 85 Location: WI
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What year is your car? I was assuming it was a 91-92.
There two connectors mounted on the timing belt cover in 4-bolt motors. If you see those, then you have a cam & crank angle sensor found in 93+ engines. Those are fixed and are not adjustable.
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a2j
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:13 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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I have found the connectors, but it doesn't do me any good? so ecu is the only thing that's left?
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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cenatix
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:07 pm |
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 pm Posts: 85 Location: WI
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Not necessarily. You can check to see if they're getting power and hook up a test light to the signal wire on the crank sensor (leads to ECU). As you crank the engine, it should light up for every trigger event. You can also use a volt meter and see the voltage drop from high-to-low or low-to-high depending on the type of sensor.
If you get an output from these sensors, then the ECU is receiving the signals but failing to fire the coil & injectors.
Also, how have you been testing for fuel? Do you have fuel pressure? Disconnect the fuel line to the fuel filter and put it in a bottle. As you turn the key to on, fuel should come out. You can also put a test light on a injector to verify they are opening/closing when you crank the engine.
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TT4ME
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:15 pm |
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:28 pm Posts: 215 Location: Manitowoc
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Are you aware of the places that rebuild ECU's for ~200?
I know you don't want to go there if you don't have to but I saw your post for a 1500 computer setup...
Like I said before, judging by pics, your ECU is messed up. A simple cap replace will not fix the problem. You can see where something drained out and ate at the board. Yes your caps are probably bad but the board needs to have work done for it to work again. Mine looked similar, car wouldn't start, had it rebuilt and it runs good as ever.
The only way to find out before you drop 200 is to try another ECU (or find a brave soul to try your's in his car.) Unfortunately, I do not have one to offer.
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