I'd like to help but I'll be addressing my own transmission related issues. The POWER CAV is down for the count currently with auto trans issues. I will be installing the poly mounts in the slow and pulling the trans on the cavvy this weekend now.

_________________

I'll try to stop up and at least heckel.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

Well all, I will prevail you with my 3k transmission woes and how I got through them although I haven't posted much so I can only imagine you all know more than me. Maybe these pearls of wisdom will save someone a grand and I'll feel as though I didn't really waste that ton of money on transmissions for nothing.

Vehicle: 91 3kgt VR4.

Purchased with 50k miles on it, ripe for tranny failure. Sure enough, tranny went out about 10k miles later. Took it to the Mitsu dealership and they quoted 7k repair (you would think they looked that up in a book or someting). Clearly that was out, so I took it to the local chop shop rebuild place which was in 2000 or so (I think the rebuild parts were avail then). That ran me about 3k. Worked great for about 6 months. One month out of warranty it started falling apart and dropping one gear at a time starting with that magical 2nd gear. Believe it or not I am extremely gentle on my tranny. One year later, I only have 1st, 4th, 5th, reverse, then it freezes up in 2nd gear. I store the car for 2 years. I just took it out in March and had it repaired only this time I did my homework and here is what I found (and this may be the useful part).

Option 1:
The dealer will sell you a factory refurb tranny for 3900, if you can get a "shop" to buy it from them you get a 20% discount and it ends up being about 3100 or so. Beat them up on labor, it shouldn't take more than about 6 hours at $60 to $70 an hour. I went with this option, paid 3200 for the tranny and beat them up on labor and got it installed for 500 bucks. I have a one year warranty on parts and labor. I basically paid for the insurance and it ran so well after that I even stopped crying about writing the check only a week later.

Option 2:
Get a qualified shop to rebuild it and buy the damn rebuild kit for them from Kormex or a couple others out there, I've seen them for sale but haven't gone down that route.

Option 3:
And this is what I did for my 92 DOHC but I could have gone this route on my 91 VR4 as well. There is a huge market on engines and trannys shipping in from Japan. There are a lot more regulations on getting cars off the road with fewer miles in japan (is my understanding) and you can buy engines and trannys with (and this is horrible guess work) 40-60k miles on them. Even though the guess work is probably horrible, the trannys are typically warrantied for 3 to 6 months if performed by an ASE certified mechanic (who doesn't have that these days). I had a long talk and I was told about 5% ship bad and worst case scenario you send it back and get a new one. They advertise that you have to ship it back and pay, etc. but when I questioned them about it they ultimately just send you another one and tell you to keep the old one typically. The tranny is $450 if you beat them up a little bit for no matter what version vr4, dohc, auto or manual. Beat them up on shipping and the minimum they will go is $120, but typically $140 to $150 (to a shop only, $180 or more to a residence). Ultimately you end up with a decent tranny with 60k miles? with a 6 mo warranty so you know your ok if there is an immediate issue.

I have a few links that I used for research:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/323trannylist.htm

which is a group that is independent that just is interested in getting you into a new tranny.

http://www.jdmenginesinc.com/

Is where I have picked up two tranny's now, neither of which are in yet, but I'll let you know.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=ja ... gle+Search

is the google search to find the shops that sell the japanese imported engines and trannys. The entire first page is filled with resellers.

Keep in mind japanese tranny's have the power steering pump attached to the tranny so you need to close the system by putting a hose from the output/input or (as I did) pulling the pump off and sealing it with a metal plate and silicone. Aside from that, they are identical.

Sorry for the long post and who knows, after I spent almost 10k on just transmission work, maybe someone will be a little smarter than I was next time.

BTW, I will probably be bringing one of those tranny's to the w3si event for a 90-93 DOHC and selling it as I now have an extra. I'll let everyone know how mine worked out and will have it at the event.

I'm sure I am way behind in "the know" compared to you all but if this info helps anyone get one more step ahead of their tranny problem than it's a good thing. See you all at the gathering.

Bret

Bret,

That is awesome info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What day are you doing this? I need to head up that way and drop off my oil pan for Adam, I can stop by for a bit and throw stuff at you, and say all kinds of "encouraging" things.

_________________
1993 3000GT VR-4 (build in progress)
1994 3000GT SL
Lead, Follow, or get out of my way!

Also know as:
"dead weight", "wrong wheel drive noob"

Awesome post Brett, thanks for the update!

That is great news!

Best,

SJ

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Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

http://umg.mn3s.org

http://ummo.boards.net

It depends on if Joe works saturday morning or not, I will post in this thread immediatly once I lets me know. I'm going to take Jeff's advice and start piecing her down tonight, possibly draining fluid as well as disconnecting the mother of a downpipe.

I have access to some air tools for saturday, and if only the car moved... we could get it to a house with a lift in it, but I see no way that is possible.

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2005 Saab Linear 2.0t - DD
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (Sandstone Grey) - SOLD!!
BPU 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T ATX - SOLD!!!

Depends on if you have a AAA member (like me ) there. We call, they come, they tow, no problemo!

KEEP US POSTED MAN!

Best,

SJ

_________________


Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

http://umg.mn3s.org

http://ummo.boards.net

That easy? I know that one of the clear stipulations about AAA's towing coverage is that they will not come and pick up a car from your house. Their coverage is supposed to be roadside assistance only. Unless they just "say" that but are more lenient in practice.

Or, I guess it would be possible to push the car onto the street and get a tow from there. Abusing the system, the American way.... lol.

_________________
"Well-weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air,
Sunlight on chrome, the blur of the landscape, every nerve aware..."



meastie beastie

True. True Value.

Unless they've changed their policy, I've done it twice before, from my driveway -- but that was few years back.

I think the idea of it being in the street *probably* is a good one.

Brett -- can we do that?

SJ

_________________


Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

http://umg.mn3s.org

http://ummo.boards.net

I've had AAA tow me out of my driveway. I had the car in the garage, but the towtruck guy came and told me he couldnt take it unless i took it out of the garage. So with his help, I pushed it into the driveway and it was on its merry way.

I also had AAA tow me out of Great Lakes Dragaway twice.... lol. Now this I know they werent supposed to do, but since the guy was there, he did it anyways. He said they can tow it out of the main lot there, but not the pit area where I was both times.

The key is you just tell AAA you are in front of (insert address here) and need a tow. Then once the guy gets there, he'll just take care of it because if he doesnt tow you, he doesnt get paid.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Just a thought for future reference.


You only have to wait (3) days after signing up for a year's membership. Once that (3) days is up, you immediately qualify for three tows per year. I know this from personal experience.


It is well worth that 75 bucks. Realize that doesn't help Brett this weekend, but it may help someone in the future.

Joe is going be coming here as soon as he can Saturday night, so if anyone can jump the gun and gimme some help during the day let me know, I should be here all day working on misc stuff trying to shorten the process.

Phone: 920 265 0461

Map:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q ... 43259&om=1

_________________
2005 Saab Linear 2.0t - DD
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (Sandstone Grey) - SOLD!!
BPU 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T ATX - SOLD!!!

Update:

I removed the front passenger tire in search of th drain plug for transmission and think I found it. I found 2 plugs close to eachother on the transmission, I'm assuming the higher one is the fill plug and the one on the side of the tranny (near the wheelwhell cover) is the drain plug.

I began draining the fluid... is it supposed to drain out quickly like oil or just seep out slowly? There's a foul odor and it's very dark... not sure if this means anything at all.

Any suggestions?

_________________
2005 Saab Linear 2.0t - DD
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (Sandstone Grey) - SOLD!!
BPU 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T ATX - SOLD!!!

So yeah I'm thinking fluid leaked over winter and I just didn't notice it, but Joe is for sure comin tomorrow robably 4pm ish, so all are welcome to come and if you want you can stay over as well.

We're gonna tear er apart and have some fun

_________________
2005 Saab Linear 2.0t - DD
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (Sandstone Grey) - SOLD!!
BPU 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T ATX - SOLD!!!