I can tell you the cost right now, your looking at 1k minimum if you keep your stock FWD tranny.

I decided to rebuild my block, go with 8:1 TT pistons, rebuild the heads etc and thats another $1500 on top of it right there.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Cost... well, you can do this on "the cheap" or you can do it right. There is a saying that I really like, and I think it fits perfectly into this situation.

You can have a car that is:
A. Cheap
B. Fast
C. Reliable

Pick two.

When I did my conversion, I had set aside about 1500 dollars to do it, and I spent about 2500-3000 by the time I was done. Getting the "stock TT parts" is the easy part, and if you can get those cheap you are in good shape.

You will NEED and I repeat, NEED a data logger. This is the first thing on your list, if you dont have this, don't even think about doing this upgrade. Depending on how you want to handle fuel control (93 TT ECU or keeping your N/A ECU and running a e-manage) will determine which logger you get.

Gauges, dont forget about those. At the very least you will need a boost gauge, but I would suggest you add a fuel pressure gauge as well. Another thing I would say is a must is a wideband Air/Fuel ratio sensor and gauge. Are you planning on boosting the stock N/A block (ie keeping your compression 10:1) or are you going to get a TT block? This will determin the amont of boost you are going to run, and wether you need a boost controller or just run wastegate pressure.

The question of trannsmission as come up many times, while you can get away with you stock N/A transmission (you will need a MUCH stronger clutch) it would be best to find a first gen (18 spline) transmission. They are much, much stonger then the N/A transmissions, however, my N/A transmission held up without issue up to this point. You can also get away without adding an LSD (a good one is about 1000 dollars) to the front end, and I don't have one in mine yet, but it sucks royal donkey balls to just sit there burning up 1 tire all the time.

Ok, so the post is a little long, and i do have more to say on the topic, but this isn't something you should just jump into without a lot of planning. FWD-TT is fun as hell to drive, I was glad that I did mine.

_________________
1993 3000GT VR-4 (build in progress)
1994 3000GT SL
Lead, Follow, or get out of my way!

Also know as:
"dead weight", "wrong wheel drive noob"

I would definetely recommend not using an N/A ecu, its much less of a hassle to jump right in with a TT ECU.

I'm also with JHammer on the cost, I started out in the 1k range with most the TT parts and it went up from there with parts you don't think about.

I'd also recruit some people in your area to help beforehand otherwise it'll be a long winter / fall

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

Wow, thanks alot guys and especially you jhammer.

I plan on getting a gauge pod, and to spend around 2.5-3k when all is said and done. What is the diffrence between the 2 blocks?(10:1 8:1, is it worth it?) How long did it take for an install? Thanks for the imput!

10:1 you basically have to run lower boost unless you run some sort of meth/water injection. You also will have to tune even a stock TT ECU with an SAFC or Emanage etc.

8:1 you can run a stock TT ECU with no fuel control and stock boost levels easily.

I choose to keep my NA block and heads and just install new 8:1 TT pistons. I lack oil squirters but from what I've read and IPO's success with his TT swap and my HP level it'll be fine.

Install length isn't to bad, you can easily do it in a weekend or two, much of my install was waiting on parts I had forgotten or driving to local mitsu dealerships to pick up last minute stuff.

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

unless you know the car well, and can tune I would pass on this adventure.

at least for the time being. learn your NA inside and out before throwing more complicated sh*t on it.

Anyone can strap the turbos on... helps when your sober...

My turbos are on Jon's car. getting hair dryers is easy.

knowing what the f*ck your doing after strapping them on... hell, I haven't figured all that out yet, and mine came with turbos from the factory... too many. I took one off.

but I'm weird like that.

So... once again... drive your car. enjoy it. once you think you know ALOT about them... learn a bit more, then swap on turbos.

_________________
Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

exactly what I'm doing.

Do mods that can still be used after the turbo swap first. Learn how to do some tuning if you think you will go that route. Then after you have all of the supporting mods add the turbos.

THOUGHT that's what I was doing...

SJ

_________________


Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

http://umg.mn3s.org

http://ummo.boards.net

WOW! lots of info, thanks a ton everybody

I know a couple of big car nuts that are confident that they can do this... altho i dont know if i am confident that they can . I dont know if i want to go through with this yet... how much of a diffrence does it make to you FWDTT guys? take off/acceleration wise. Can you switch the 8:1 yourself? If it takes about 2 weekends it will take me about 7 so maybe in the winter when the car is stored i could try this. Anybody from the Appleton area willing to help as well if i do decide to go with this?

What kind of mods could i do to help me understand this better?

Ohh yea, i ordered some coilovers last week, so i am hoping they will be here tomrrow, that will help me a bit. righttt.......

Acceleration is insane from when I remember being N/A. The front pop's up and its pretty much squirrelly from there on

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1991 Stealth RT/TT

That is a question you will have to answer yourself. The compression on an engine is based on the piston (yes guys, I know the heads can change it too, but lets keep this simple) so if you want to make a 10:1 motor into and 8:1 motor you have to change the pistons. So, can you pull a motor, break it apart, change pistons, and put it back together?

The other option is to just replace your N/A motor with a motor from a VR4. You would also have to make sure you get the tranmission from the VR4 as well because your N/A transmission will not bolt on to a VR4 motor.

How much of a difference does it make? That depends on boost levels, traction, the tune of the car, but even a basic 6lbs. of boost with stock 9b turbos on a 10:1 motor is crazy fun. Just make sure you are holding on to the wheel nice and tight when you punch it if you dont have an LSD installed!

_________________
1993 3000GT VR-4 (build in progress)
1994 3000GT SL
Lead, Follow, or get out of my way!

Also know as:
"dead weight", "wrong wheel drive noob"

ok, so since you said that... I had an idea. hear me out here.

we NEED to find a POS NA and stack about 20 or 30 headgaskets inbetween the block and the head, take a picture, and post it on 3si as the "w3si na-to-turbo project car with an 8 to 1 compression engine."

comedy gold.

_________________
Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!

Priceless. I'm in.

SJ

_________________


Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting.

http://umg.mn3s.org

http://ummo.boards.net

I've heard of people doing that to N/A Supras.

I'm pretty sure the blocks are the same you should only need to swap the flywheels, but if you can get both for a good price go for it. The AWD trans is a lot stronger but needs to be modified to work.

While you could just throw new 8:1 pistons in the motor I wouldn't recommend it. Remember you three choices.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness